Konya, in the a-whirl of the very own
I t is the heart of Chicken. Konya, a community away from a million souls, leg squats smack in the center of Anatolia’s nuts simple, enclosed by open, unlimited prairie. Turkey’s really culturally conventional urban area, Konya seems initially to-be a place from rigorous headscarves and you can foreboding beards, of ostentatiously observed pieties and you can forbidden drinks. But uncovering Konya is straightforward – to possess right here, in the middle of your own dated urban area, in his tomb of turquoise ceramic tiles, is actually Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is amongst the world’s extremely understand poets. During the his lifetime, and because their passing into the 1273, pilgrims have come to Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb is Turkey’s 2nd very-visited site visitors appeal adopting the Topkapi Palace inside the Istanbul. Their supporters create (whilst still being carry out) eradicate themselves from inside the trance and you will dancing, both spinning like tops day long.
These types of spinning dervishes are in reality the brand new icon regarding Turkey’s tourism procedures, and sip beverage on your own Istanbul lodge lobby watching specific bad bloke from inside the a large beige noticed cap whirling to own your enjoyment. To the real deal, in the event, been heree to Konya and you come to Turkey’s spirit. Inside Rumi’s conditions:
There was a big, unbelievable the new civil auditorium where this delicate spinning peoples ballet is performed, and you can any number of charming shiny-eyed mystics in carpet storage, cafes and gothic bazaars, most of the happy so you can receive one to a personal zikhr
“Whoever you might be, come Even though you is An enthusiastic infidel, a great pagan, or an effective fireworshipper, come All of our brotherhood is not one of depression If you has actually damaged Their vows off repentance one hundred minutes, started.”
Pretty much every year once the 1983, I was coming for the one or two mil-or-thus people just who see Konya per year. Some are Turkish, many Iranians (exactly who allege Rumi because their own, as the he blogged in their code and you may grew up in eastern Persia) and additionally make the pilgrimage.
Rather than and come up with Konya a stop into a shuttle concert tour, I will suggest becoming for a few months, soaking up the feeling, restaurants a number of Turkey’s most useful lamb, seeing their most useful Seljuk tissues and you can – perhaps – shedding crazy about Rumi. You could potentially fly into the inexpensively from Istanbul, from which addititionally there is a great scruffy, atmospheric illustrate, otherwise appear by-road. Konya is within effortless come to of your own cavern dwellers and you will carpet suppliers of Cappadocia.
Rumi turned up right here just like the a great son, whenever Konya had been an area for a couple of,000 decades. It actually was created of the Hittites, have been succeeded by Phrygians, then the Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the kings out-of Pergamon additionally the Romans, who called the set Iconium. Saints Paul and you can Barnabus one another preached here, but by 1071 the fresh new Seljuks, good Turcoman group, was responsible, as well as their architectural heritage suffers.
Its Karatay Medrese out-of 1251 are a work of art from elaborate tiling and you may good domes. It is today the Museum away from Tiles and you may Ceramics, whoever information take care of the vibrancy and you will strike that they had whenever basic discharged. Nearby, the new Ince Minarali Medrese is becoming the fresh Art gallery off Brick and Wood Sculpture, that will be way less dead than just You will find made it voice. Both of these property whet urge for food to discover the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and astonishing Sahip Ata mosque: in place of much of new Muslim globe, in the Poultry you are encouraged to check out mosques, any kind of your religious choices.
At junction of your dated urban area as well as unsightly this new neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, this new city’s vantage area, whose breathtaking black pulpit and you may sensitive and painful prayer-market are from 1155 (this new cutting-edge was finished in 1221). The fresh boulevard radiating from this point brings you to Rumi’s tomb, where a whole lot more later on. Rumi may Turks just like the Mevlana (the new Sainted That), and after this Konya is within thrall so you can Mevlanamania.
Rumi is actually a mystical, a great Sufi saint who treasured the religions, and you may whose very own religion is actually love
As i earliest arrived, Mevlana’s followers, the fresh new Mevlevi, have been a prohibited organization, accepted just for their “folkloric dancing” and you may whirlings. Group meetings took place covertly, dishonestly.
I mentioned eating, too. Konya’s mutton-centric food is great. Etli ekmek try a long, thin roll-upwards pizza give with delicately spiced mince, and you will Konya kebab was a mutton shank, really more sluggish roasted and you can served into a pillow away from money that have a sweet red-colored onion. Best was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. Zero 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and selfmade yogurt are eden-made.
For this reason, incredibly provided, with many cups of nice tannic beverage in you, build your answer to Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, new interested therefore the fervent. A strange twinkly light plays into the tombs from Rumi and you can his supporters. The fresh walls is actually embroidered having calligraphy, additionally the ceilings are a great kaleidoscope regarding beautifully performed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included from inside the vastly stitched content from silver, and you will appears to shine white and peace and you can mercy.
The your own fellow pilgrims often understand Korans, while some Rumi’s poetry. have a glance at the weblink Very grab photo, although this is strictly forbidden. You’ll find those who weep silently, and people who make fun of out loud; those who reflect from day to night, and those who hurry due to. Are common gone, having we have found love.
To experience unofficially and you can insinuating alone into your awareness is the ney, a reed flute. It sounds eg breathy air, but is really the sound of flame, hence goes up and drops to the us all. That isn’t specific sullen religious moaning, but the voice out of yearning, off communion, of one’s heart. You have got they – it’s heart musical, plus it really supplies you with. So already been.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies in order to Konya through Istanbul off Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and Manchester, out-of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul in order to Konya of the train will cost you throughout ?24 return, or around ?thirty-six go back by the bus. Lodge Balikcilar have bedroom or about ?70 (as well as have caters to cool drinks). Resort Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) bedroom around ?20. Seats observe the newest whirling dervishes try free from the website visitors office, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum at SeleneTour (+ninety 532 564 9192, ) arranges individual spinning and you can zikhr of ?30pp.
